How to sew a button-up midi skirt

Make a stylish button-up midi skirt with this guide from Portia Lawrie – no pattern required!

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Portia Lawrie

Published: May 20, 2024 at 1:16 pm

We've been inspired by The Great British Sewing Bee to create our own button-up midi skirt. Portia Lawrie has designed this flowing linen midi skirt perfect for keeping cool in the summer months.

A button front dirndl skirt is a classic that will never go out of style. Even better, there's no pattern required. The main body of the skirt is made from three rectangles of fabric. Use this method to create a mini, midi or maxi skirt.

What you'll need to make the button up midi skirt

Light- to medium-weight fabric: approx 2mx152cm (21/4ydx60in)
Light- to medium-weight iron-on interfacing: 1mx20cm (11/8ydx9in)
Matching thread
Basic sewing kit

Things to note

Fabric and interfacing requirements will depend on the size you would like to make. The amounts listed will be enough to make a midi-length skirt in UK sizes 6–16. For a longer or larger size skirt you will need more fabric.

Measuring yourself

Take the following measurements: Waist = W
Desired length = L

Which fabric have we used to create the midi skirt?

Aqua Viscose Linen Slub Fabric Ref: MODLV130724-5038 from Hantex.

How to make a button-up midi skirt

how to sew a linen skirt

Step 1

Cutting out

From the main fabric cut:

Skirt Back: Cut a rectangle from your fabric that is your waist (W) measurement x desired length (L), plus your preferred hem allowance, we added 3cm (11/4in). This will be the back of your skirt.

Skirt Front: Cut two rectangles half the width of W + 3cm (11/4in) and as long as L plus your preferred hemming allowance. These two rectangles will be the front of your skirt. The additional 3cm (11/4in) width you added will form your button packets.

Waistband: Cut a strip the length of W + 5.5cm (21/4in) and 8cm (31/8in) wide.

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Step 2

From the interfacing cut:

Waistband Interfacing: Cut a strip of interfacing the same length and width as the waistband.

Placket Interfacing: Cut two strips of interfacing the same length and width (3cm/11/4in) as your button plackets.

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Step 3

Press the interfacing to the wrong side (WS) of the waistband and to the centre front edges of the Skirt Front pieces.

Finish the centre front edges of the Skirt Front pieces.

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Step 4

Constructing the skirt

On the centre front edges of the two front pieces, press under the 3cm (11/4in) placket allowance and topstitch in place from the RS.

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Step 5

Pin and sew the front and back pieces, RS together, at the side seams using a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Overlock or zigzag the raw edges together then press them towards the back of the skirt and edgestitch along the seam from the outside to secure the seam allowance.

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Step 6

Gather or pleat the top edge of your skirt until it is 2cm (3/4in) shorter than your waistband piece.

Consider the gather/pleat placement and direction and play around until you are happy that they are well-placed and evenly distributed. Pin then tack in place

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Step 7

Attaching the waistband

Press the entire waistband in half lengthways and then press one of the long edges to the WS with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

Place the unpressed long edge of the waistband RS down on the WS of your skirt waist with raw edges aligned and sew in place with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

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Step 8

Press the seam allowance upwards and remove any tacking stitches. Fold the waistband back on itself so that RS are together.

Stitch along the short edges with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Close up to, but being careful not to catch, the button placket.

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Step 9

Trim the seam and snip the corners.

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Step 10

Turn the waistband RS out, poke out the corners and press well. Your plackets should now be enclosed within the waistband.

To finish, edgestitch along the folded edge of the waistband.

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Step 11

Finishing

Decide on your button spacing by laying out your buttons and marking with tailor's chalk.

Top tip: Use brass or silver shank buttons to give your skirt a vintage feel

Step 12

Mark and sew the buttonholes on the left-hand button placket.

Step 13

Sew the buttons on the right-hand placket, aligning them with the buttonholes.

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Step 14

Finish the raw edge of the hem. Turn the hem allowance to the WS and sew in place.

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Patternless sewing projects for the win!

Perfect for beginners, Portia Lawrie's button-up linen skirt will be the perfect addition to your summer wardrobe. Comfortable, cool and stylish!

More sewing inspired by The Great British Sewing Bee

If like us, you're just a bit obsessed with The Bee, then check out sewing bee-inspired patterns. We'll update it every week when the new episode airs! So you'll have plenty of inspiration to elevate your wardrobe.

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Sewing designer

Essex maker, blogger and creator of The Refashioners, Portia sews, knits and has been a regular contributor to Simply Sewing magazine since it launched in 20015. She’s been writing her blog Makery (formerly Miss P) since 2009 and founded The Refashioners challenge, calling on bloggers to refashion a garment to highlight how cool, creative and ecologically sound refashioning old garments actually is. Portia’s sewing super power is creating easy-to-sew, accessible-for-all garments for Simply Sewing magazine, often with no pattern needed so the maker can draft them to their own measurements. She lists family, hazelnut lattes, Indian food and singing into hairbrushes as her loves. Find her on Instagram @portialawrie.