Since launching onto the UK sewing scene over a decade ago with an appearance on series 1 of The Great British Sewing Bee TV series, Tilly Walnes’ mission has been to make dressmaking accessible to a new generation of sewists.
Tired of confusing diagrams and patterns printed on thin tissue with a tendency to rip, Tilly completely rethought what sewing patterns could offer. Since then, Tilly and the Buttons has pioneered clear step-by-step photography, jargon-free instructions and, most importantly, fresh, trend-led designs that women want to make and wear.
With three successful books behind her and countless women’s patterns, Tilly is now turning her attention to children’s clothing with the launch of her latest title, Mini Makes. Featuring six core patterns designed for children aged between 0-12 years, each item has multiple customisation options to make completely unique pieces for the littles in your life.
Where to buy the book?
Get your copy of Tilly and the Buttons: Mini Makes: Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0–12 Years by Tilly Walnes.
Interview with Tilly Walnes
We caught up with Tilly to find out more about her new exciting new book!
Wearable inventions
“I love making kids’ clothes, both as gifts for others and for my own children,” says Tilly. “It’s such a fun process stitching together little pieces of fabric, adding cute embellishments, and imagining them wearing them.
“Children’s patterns can be hit and miss, so I wanted to create quality patterns with wearable designs and comprehensive instructions. The original plan was to release the patterns individually, but Team Buttons convinced me that it would work better to put them together into a book, with more guidance and options for variations – and they were right!”
Get your free sample pattern
Simply Sewing readers can exclusively try the Indigo Dress from Tilly’s book included with the issue as a bonus pattern!*
*not on export copies
Wearability has always been at the heart of Tilly and the Buttons collections, and this was more important than ever when creating children’s clothing. “The initial stages involved a fair bit of research, including establishing a size chart, and factoring in safety guidelines for childrenswear, such as avoiding potentially hazardous ties and drawstrings,” Tilly explains.
“I designed the projects to ensure they suit a wide range of ages, from babies to tweens, both in style and functionality. We adjusted skirt lengths for crawlers and added shoulder openings to younger sizes to make it easier to dress babies and toddlers.
“Above all, we made sure the designs were practical – comfortable, washable, easy to get on and off, and non-restrictive so kids can run and play freely.”
Clothing made to last
Tilly has first-hand experience of the importance of durable children’s clothes – she has two boys, aged six and two, who are happy to put her makes through their paces. “My kids are very active, so I usually reach for stretch knit fabrics like cotton jersey, sweatshirt fleece and French terry, which are comfortable and allow for sofa acrobatics,” she explains.
“The book includes a selection of knee and elbow patch designs, which not only look cute but are great for strengthening these areas that come under a lot of strain. As for wovens, I look for natural fibres such as cotton that feel soft against the skin and that wash well.
“Corduroy is a great choice for the Sonny jacket, while cotton lawn, seersucker and double gauze are lovely options for the Indigo dress. I usually pick colours or prints that hide stains – my youngest is the messiest eater, and my eldest has a penchant for digging holes!”
Designed for every child
One of the key features of the book is that most of the patterns are designed to be gender-neutral and look equally good on girls and boys. “I know I’m not the only one who laments the prescriptively gendered offerings of most ready-to-wear kids’ clothing – not all children want to be pigeon-holed into wearing a pink princess dress or a car-print cargo pant!” explains Tilly.
“It was important to me to create unisex designs that could be tailored to a child’s individual taste and personality – whether that comes through in the fabric choice, variations or embellishments added.”
Another part of the appeal in creating a collection of children’s patterns was that they’re a brilliant place for beginner sewists and dressmakers to start. “The great thing about making clothing for kids is that the pieces are smaller, making them easier to handle and quicker to sew, explains Tilly. “If you’ve made a few basic projects before, you’ll be able to make most of the patterns in this book with ease.”
She’s taken care to ensure her new book, Mini Makes, includes a comprehensive guide to measuring, pattern cutting and fabric selection, making it an accessible way to get into creating children’s clothes. She recommends the Billie sweatshirt pattern for beginners, due to the simple seams and low-stretch fabric, while the Ridley leggings are a great way to get to grips with sewing jersey fabric as they have only the one pattern piece to contend with.
Fit for purpose
“When it comes to sizing, kids’ measurements vary wildly, but on the plus side, clothing styles can be more forgiving!” Tilly explains. “Measure the child if you can; otherwise pick a size that matches their ready-to-wear clothes, and factor in room for growth.
“You might want to err on the side of making sleeves and legs longer than initially needed, with a turn-up, or make the adjustable buttonhole elastic hack on the Ridley leggings waistband so they last longer.”
Tilly also has some tips to maximise the longevity of your makes: “Consider comfort and practicality first – even if you’re making an outfit for a special occasion. Strengthen seams with an extra row of stitching on areas that come under strain such as underarms and crotch seam, and use an overlocker if you have one to create a long-lasting finish.
“Avoid ties and drawstrings that could get caught, and ensure any buttons or snaps are securely attached. Bear in mind the child’s sensory preferences too – some children don’t like wearing hoods or shoulder straps, and many will have skin sensitivities to think about when picking fabrics."
It’s these little touches that have made the patterns firm favourites in her own house – the Billie sweatshirt with bear face detail is a long-lasting hit with her two boys. “It began life as a pattern I drafted for my first son to wear when he was a toddler, and between the two of them they’ve been through a few versions of it! They love the fact that I can add cute embellishments such as the faces.”
New challenges
Tilly’s adventure into children’s clothing doesn’t mean she’s moving away from womenswear – she has big plans for Tilly and the Buttons this year. “We have four gorgeous womenswear patterns in the works,” she shares. “They’re all very different, so there’s something for everyone – and hopefully you’ll love them all like I do!
“The style of our designs has changed to reflect my own lifestyle – more comfortable, everyday pieces, a bit less vintage, although I can’t resist the occasional nod to the Seventies! What has always stayed the same is our mission and ethos – to get more people sewing with inspiring, user-friendly resources, and to give them a joyful experience doing so.
“We’re also planning to grow our collection of online sewing workshops (shop.tillyandthebuttons.com) – these video classes are great because they allow people to learn new sewing skills from home, at a time and pace that suits them, and refer back to the lessons anytime they need a refresher. Longer term, I have lots of notes scribbled down for two more books I’m itching to write… but those are projects for one day, not right now!”
What won’t change is Tilly’s pride in creating designs that sewists will love to make, over and over again. “Seeing people from all over the world wearing outfits they have made with our patterns, and hearing feedback that we taught them to sew, sparked their creativity, and brought joy to their lives is absolutely priceless."
Get your copy now and start creating!
Get your copy of Tilly and the Buttons: Mini Makes: Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0–12 Years by Tilly Walnes.
