How to cable knit: beginner's guide and 24 cable stitch patterns

You’ve probably seen cabled knits on the high street and you might even have a cabled jumper, hat or scarf in your wardrobe. But did you know how easy it is to do it yourself? Learning how to cable knit is simpler than you think, and in this guide we'll show you how it's done.

How to cable knit video guide

We've filmed this video showcasing how to cable knit the C4F and C6B. You can use the same technique however many stitches you have in your cables – this demonstrated how to move the stitches around with a cable needle and hold it in front or behind your work. We have written instructions for this below too, if you find that more straightforward to follow.

How to knit cables

Cabling is the word that knitters use to describe any technique that crosses a set of stitches over other stitches. Crossing stitches allows you to create all sorts of textured effects, including twists, braids, rope-like patterns and chunky cables.

To work traditional cables, you need to place a set of stitches temporarily onto a cable needle, and hold them at the front or back of the fabric while you work another set of stitches. You then work the stitches on the cable needle. This moves the cable needle stitches to the left or right, creating a textured column in your knitted fabric.

With cable patterns it’s a good idea to make a tension square, because the stitches that are crossed over tend to ‘draw in’ your fabric. So if you cable quite tightly, this may throw off your stitch tension. If in doubt, make a swatch!

Usually all the cabling is done on the right side of the fabric, with the stitches on the wrong side worked plain to maintain the overall effect. The cable itself is usually worked in stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side), on a background of reverse stocking stitch (purl on right side, knit on wrong side). This makes the cable stand out from the rest of the fabric.

So if the instructions for the wrong side read something like ‘work straight’ or ‘work stitches as set’ or ‘work stitches as they present themselves’, it usually means you should work the cables so they remain in stocking stitch on the front, and work the background so it’s reverse stocking stitch on the front. Reversible cables can be created by working the cables in a ribbed stitch, with the background in garter stitch or moss stitch, so that’s reversible, too.

Fishermen's sweaters

Traditionally, cables were used to embellish the pure wool jumpers worn by fishermen. Each village, boat, family and individual had their own design. But each symbol also had its own meaning. For example, ropes are a wish for safety and good luck for a big catch; the honeycomb pattern is used to represent the nets and is a reminder of hard-working bees; and zigzags represent the dangers of the sea such as cliffs and storms.

Fishermen’s sweaters were designed for harsh weather – as the stitches twist over each other, the fabric created is thicker and more wind resistant. Because of all the twisting, yarns with good elasticity are best. Wool and acrylic yarns are well suited to cabling, but it is possible to get good results from cotton, viscose or silk, although cables knitted with these yarns may become stretched after some use.

Good stitch definition is vital for cables and they stand out best on smooth yarns in a solid colour, so avoid fuzzy or variegated yarns. High-twist yarns also give very good cable definition.

Reading cable abbreviations

Cable stitches usually have a single abbreviation, such as C4F. C stands for cable; the number is the stitches that are affected by the cable (4 means you put two onto the cable needle); and the letter tells you which side of the fabric to hold them (F for front, B for back). Cables are most often even in number (such as four and six).

Cables can be described in different ways, so do check the pattern abbreviations. Cable stitches held at the front will look like they’re twisting to the left, so a stitch that reads C4F is the same as one that reads C4L. Similarly, cable stitches held at the back will create a lean to the right, so a stitch that reads C4B is the same as one that reads C4R.

The number of rows a cable repeat takes is commonly the same as the number in the abbreviation. So a C4F will usually have three rows worked ‘straight’ for every cabled row – four rows in total. Use a row counter to keep track of which row you’re on.

Reading cable charts

Cable charts, like cable abbreviations, will often give one symbol for the entire cable section. When working charts in flat knitting, read right side rows from right to left, and wrong side rows from left to right. When working charts in the round, read all rows from right to left.

The charts will usually have numbers up the sides which will help you to keep track of where you are in the pattern. Another trick is to cover up rows you’ve already worked, to avoid working the same row twice – sticky notes that you can reposition are really handy for this, though you can also buy magnetic strips to use.

See our guide on how to read cable charts for an in-depth tutorial on knitting cables from charts.

How to knit a cable stitch

C4F knitting stitch: how to Cable 4 Front

The easiest cable technique, and the one most people try first when they're learning how to cable knit, is Cable 4 Front (C4F). This twists the stitches to the left and creates the ‘twisted rope’ effect that you’ll probably recognise.

To practise this cable stitch, we recommend you use a smooth wool or acrylic-based DK yarn and a pair of 4mm needles. Cast on 22 stitches and on the first row, purl 9 stitches, knit 4 stitches, purl 9 stitches. This will be the right side of the fabric. Work the second row: K9, P4, K9. This will be the wrong side.

On the next row, you can start cabling. Work the row as follows: P9, C4F, P9. It might help you to place a stitch marker on both sides of the central column of four stitches so you know where the cabled panel starts and ends on every row. Work three rows ‘straight’ (as for your first, second and first row again), then repeat the cabling row on every fourth row. Pull the yarn tightly either side of the panel.

Keep going until you’re happy with the technique. Don’t worry if it looks uneven – cabling can take a little while to master, so just carry on practising.