From how to do overlay mosaic crochet and how to do inset mosaic crochet, to reading charts and designing your own - we've got it all covered in this tutorial!
Mosaic crochet is a surprisingly easy way to create colourful fabrics with two yarn colours. The technique produces an on-trend geometric effect, reminiscent of tiled floors.
The best thing about mosaic crochet is that it is fundamentally made with stripes of colours, meaning you can create patterns without changing colours mid-way through a row.
In this tutorial, we'll show you all the basics of how to do mosaic crochet with step-by-step picture tutorials and videos which you'll find below, but you can also use these links for if you want to jump ahead to a specific part.
Check out our handy video on how to do inset mosaic crochet or see below for our step-by-step picture guide.
In this technique, you’ll alternate colours every two rows. These rows will mostly be worked in double crochet, but to create a tiled effect with these pairs of rows, you’ll also work chain lengths and a special stitch called a mosaic treble.
To get started, you just need two yarns in contrasting colours and an appropriately sized hook – we used DK yarn in red (Yarn A) and cream (Yarn B) with a 4mm hook. You’ll also find it helpful to have four stitch markers.
Start by using Yarn A to make two rows of 22 double crochet stitches. To do this, ch23, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc across. On the final dc of the second row, change to Yarn B on the final yrh, turn and your work should look like this.
At the end of every even row on a mosaic crochet piece, you’ll need to change to the contrasting colour yarn on the final yrh of the final dc. There’s no need to cut the yarn though, you can just carry it up the side or back of the work instead.
Step 2
Now work Row 3 with Yarn B: ch1, dc in the first 3 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc and mark these 2 sts with stitch markers, dc in each of next 12 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc and mark these 2 sts with stitch markers, dc in each st to the end.
Step 3
Turn and continue with Yarn B for Row 4: ch1, dc in each of the first 3 dc, ch3 over the top of the ch-3 sts on the row below, dc in each of next 12 dc, ch3 over the top of the ch-3 sts on the row below, dc in each of rem dc to end, changing to Yarn A on the final yrh of the final dc.
Turn and your work should look like this. Now you’ll be ready to try making a mosaic treble…
Step 4
Now you’re ready for the fun bit: making your stitch that creates the mosaic effect!
This stitch goes by a couple of different names, it might be called a mosaic treble (abbreviated as mtr), or it may be referred to as a treble 3 down (tr3d) – whichever term is used it’s the same stitch, essentially a treble worked 3 rows down over the front of your chain lengths.
The stitch markers and the ch-3 lengths in the pictures below show where you’re going to place mosaic trebles on the next row. Using Yarn A to work Row 5, ch1 and dc in the first 3 dc.
Now you’re going to work a mosaic treble into the first marked stitch (it will help to remove the stitch marker before trying to make the stitch).
Step 5
To start a mosaic treble (tr3down), yrh and insert hook into the top of the stitch. Rotate the hook so it sits in front of the ch-3 lengths of Yarn B above it. Yrh and pull up loop.
Step 6
(Yrh and pull through 2 loops) twice. You’ll see that the finished mosaic treble is just like a standard treble, but it should sit at the front of the fabric, in front of the two ch-3 lengths of Yarn B.
If you turn your fabric over, the mosaic treble should not be visible at the back of the work.
Step 7
Now you can make another mosaic treble in the next marked stitch by repeating Steps 2-3. To continue Row 5, dc in each of the next 5 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc (mark these skipped sts if desired), dc in each of the next 5 dc, make 2 mtr as before, dc in each of next 3 dc.
Step 8
Turn and work Row 6: ch1, dc in each of the next 10 sts (including the 2 mtr), ch3, skip ch-3 sp, dc in each stitch to the end (including the 2 mtr), remembering to change to Yarn B on the final dc.
Turn and your work should look like this. You’ll have worked 2 pairs of mosaic trebles to create two vertical links between the stripes of Yarn A. You’ll also have set the position of 2 mtr sts to be worked in Yarn B on Row 7.
That’s the basics of how to do inset mosaic crochet, if you’re working from a pattern you can just follow your chart for the remaining rows.
Not familiar with any of the abbreviations used in the tutorial?
Check out our handy video on how to do overlay mosaic crochet or see below for our step-by-step picture guide.
In this technique you change colour on each row, rejoining and fastening off each individual row so that all rows are always worked with the right side facing. Again your rows will mostly be worked in double crochet, but your tiled effect is created by the use of back loop double crochet and front loop treble crochet stitches.
To start overlay mosaic crochet, you will need to make a normal row of dc stitches.
In this example we’ll start with white yarn and work with 12dc stitches, so ch13 then dc into the second chain from hook and each chain along. Fasten off.
Step 10
Now using your next colour (red in this example), you need to rejoin into the first stitch you made of the last row – make sure you always have your right side facing throughout your inset crochet project.
To do this make a slipknot and put it onto your hook, then work a dc stitch into the first stitch – this is called a standing stitch, you don’t need to join with a ss or ch1…
…then work a dc in each stitch across and fasten off.
Step 11
Using the next colour (white), again dc into the first two stitches of the last row (having two solid dc stitches at the start and end of your fabric will help it to be more secure and give you a nice edge)...
...then work a back loop double crochet (bldc) into the next 8 stitches,
... and finish with a normal dc in the last 2 stitches (working under both loops), then fasten off.
If you look closely you'll be able to see the unworked front loops of the 8bldc on the previous row - these are the key to inset mosaic crochet!
Step 12
As usual, take your new colour and work 2 normal double crochet stitches in the first 2 stitches of the last row. Now we're going to start making our overlay mosaic crochet pattern.
You're going to work a front loop treble crochet stitch into that first unworked front loop 2 rows down - this will often be abbreviated to a FLtr2d, and we've marked it so you can see exactly which stitch it goes into...
...wrap your yarn around hook, insert your hook from the bottom going up through the front loop...
...and complete your treble as normal....
...next we're going to work a back loop double crochet into the next 6 stitches (be careful to make sure that you skip the dc stitch behind the treble you just made).
Once we've made those 6 bldc stitches, we're going to make another front loop treble crochet stitch. It can get a little confusing where to work your stitches, so if you're unsure just count along the front loops of the row 2 rows down.
So in this example, we need to skip 6 front loops to account for those 6 bldc stitches we just made...
...and front loop treble into the next front loop...
...then just finish your row as usual with 2 normal double crochet stitches, and fasten off.
Step 13
Let's work our next row. As usual, take your new colour of yarn and work a normal double crochet into your first 2 stitches...
...work a back loop double crochet stitch into the next front loop treble stitch....
... now we need to make a front loop treble crochet stitch into the next unworked front loop along (this one should be pretty obvious, but again if you're in doubt count your stitches, and try to make sure that you're not working into the front loop that is behind the treble on the last row)...
...next work 4bldc stitches along (again don't forget to skip the double crochet stitch behind your treble stitch). Next we're going to make another front loop treble crochet stitch in the next front loop, so you can count those stitches again to make sure you're going into the correct loop...
...then we need to make one more bldc stitch in the next stitch...
...and finish off as usual with 2 normal double crochet stitches and fasten off!
That's how to do the basics of overlay mosaic crochet, if you're working from a pattern you can just follow your chart for the remaining rows.
How to read a mosaic crochet chart
The majority of mosaic crochet patterns will include a chart, but there are different styles of charts for overlay and inset crochet, we’ll show you how to read both!
Now that you know how to do both the inset mosaic crochet and overlay mosaic crochet techniques, the next step is being able to use a chart that sets out where to place each of these stitches to create a specific mosaic pattern.
Mosaic crochet charts can look a bit confusing to start with, but once you know how to use them you’ll find them surprisingly simple, and you can even start designing your own.
How to read an inset mosaic crochet chart
The above chart is an example of the piece we did in the inset mosaic tutorial above. In this chart, each row counts as 2 rows.
The key to mosaic charts is remember that you don’t change colours mid-way through a row, so when you see colours mid-row on a chart these are obtained by the mosaic stitches.
So for example, on row 3 and 4 where you can see the circle chain symbols (and would make those chains on both row 3 and 4), although the background behind is red, row 3 and 4 is a white row so your chains will be white. When you come to row 5, you’ll make those tr3d mosaic trebles which will give you that colour change. Although each row on this chart represents two rows, you would only make those tr3d on row 5 only.
Occasionally you may see inset mosaic charts that are a bit different and look like the example below.
In this alternative example where each row counts as 1 row, each square represents the size of 1 dc stitch, but not every square is worked as a dc stitch.
The elongated rectangles show you where the mosaic trebles are worked instead of dc stitches to create the pattern. In practice, you’ll only use the chart as a guide for where to skip dc sts and work chain lengths instead – dc into each dc, dc into each mosaic tr, and where you encounter a chain length, look 3 rows down and work a mosaic tr into a skipped dc.
How to read an overlay mosaic crochet chart
Overlay mosaic charts are similar to inset charts in that the colours are designed to show you the final result, but it’s the symbols that are the really important part.
With an overlay mosaic crochet, remember that the majority of your dc stitches will be bldc stitches, so it’s important to be aware that your normal dc stitches have their own specific symbol.
You also need to remember that your FLtr2d stitches are going two rows down – so for example, if we look at the F symbol on row 4, the square below it on row 3 is actually going to be a white bldc, but is shown as red because your FLtr2d from the red row 4 is going over this and being worked into the front loop of the dc below on row 2.
How do I make my own Mosaic crochet charts?
Once you’ve mastered the basics and know how to read mosaic charts, you can get creative and start designing your own mosaic charts! We’ve got some handy tips to help you do this!
Follow these guidelines and suggestions for making your own chart, then set your imagination free!
🧶 You can make charts with squared paper and a pencil, or with an app where you can colour in the squares.
🧶 Start by making a chart with simple two-row stripes for inset or single-row stripes for overlay, then plan your vertical links.
🧶 Start and finish with two plain rows of dc for neat edges.
🧶 To anchor the stitches of a row, the first and last dc must be worked in the main colour: Yarn A for Yarn A rows, Yarn B for Yarn B rows. If necessary, add these stitches to each end of the row.
🧶 For a more pleasing look with inset mosaic crochet, it’s best to make the vertical links at least two stitches wide.
🧶 Remember that dc stitches are not perfectly square, so the finished piece will look slightly wider than the chart once hooked up.
Master mosaic crochet with our tutorial
We’ve covered all the key aspects of mosaic crochet in this guide so you can elevate your crochet projects.
Keep this article bookmarked so you can refer back and brush up on your new mosaic crochet skills!
Put your mosaic crochet knowledge to the test
Now it’s time to practice your new crochet technique on a project! Browse our collection of free crochet patternsand get inspired.
Becky is a writer, crafter and designer from Bristol. As well as contributing many designs to Simply Crochet, Becky is also the creator of many of the Simply Crochet workshop features, sharing her incredible crochet knowledge with readers. As well as crochet Becky is a keen crafter in a variety of disciplines, including baking, beadwork, sewing and knitting. You can catch up with Becky on Instagram at @becky.skuse
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