The creme de la creme of tubs – and a key fixture in influencers’ bathrooms – classic cast-iron baths never go out of fashion.
But however fabulous they are, vintage tubs are vulnerable to damage, so it’s well worth knowing how to do your own bath enamel repair.
After all, it’s so much better for the planet and for your wallet to restore the bath you have rather than buying new.
Something to bear in mind with bath enamel repairs
If the damage to your tub is severe, with large areas of chipping and flaking, then it’s worth getting an expert to resurface your bath. For a standalone cast-iron bath you’re probably looking at around £450 to get the whole surface refinished.
This is a good investment, as your tub is likely to last many more years looking as good as new.
But if you’re on a budget and the damage is fairly minor, you can have a go at repairing the bath enamel yourself.
What is enamel?
The type of enamel used to coat a bath is known as vitreous or porcelain enamel. It’s a form of powdered glass that is bonded under intense heat (up to 800 degrees C) to a metal surface.
It’s super tough and built to withstand heavy impact, making it a perfect material for items that get daily use, such as baths, sinks and cookware.
Bathtubs in the home gained popularity among Victorian aristocracy during the late 19th century and were typically made from tin, bronze or cast iron. From the 1900s, a clearer understanding of germs and a desire for hygiene meant indoor bathrooms began to appear in British homes.
The cast-iron bath slightly lost out to the ‘neater’ fitted bath in the 1920s. But a roll-top tub has always signalled luxury – it requires more space for starters – and over the last few years has become the top choice for chic decor lovers.
Bath enamel repair: simple vs advanced fixes
For a small chip or scratch you can fix the damage yourself. Resurfacing kits are widely available and cost around £50. This method is best for chips on the rim of the bath or other areas that won’t come into contact with your skin, as the finish can be slightly rough.
If the damaged area is large (maybe the enamel has discoloured, there’s a large stain like a tideline due to limescale, or there’s damage to the bottom of the tub) it’s best to get professional advice.
The beauty of this is that the quality of the work should be guaranteed, so any problems will be sorted by the professionals.
How to re-enamel a bath yourself
Begin by checking you have all the right equipment, the room is well ventilated and the bath is clean and dry.
Inside the resurfacing kit you’ll find sandpaper to smooth the surface, a small pot of paint and a roller. It’s important to wear a face mask with filters as the fumes from the paint are strong.
Before you start, it’s worth doing a colour test on a small area before painting the chip, as there are so many shades of white and you’ll want to get a perfect match.
Use sandpaper to gently slough off the scratch or smooth the edges of the chip. With a roller, paint over the damage.
You’ll typically need to do a couple of coats, leaving 20 minutes between each to dry. Then let the paint fully dry and cure for 48 hours before using the bath.
The room will need to be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees C.
When to call the professionals
If you have the money and the area that needs treating is considerable, it’s worth contacting a specialist to resurface your bath for you.
You can match the exact shade of your tub, or have it sprayed in an entirely new colour!
Professionals usually approach bath enamel repairs in one of two ways.
Method 1: Bath enamel repair in situ
The resurfacing team will come to your house. Be prepared for them to be there for around five to seven hours, depending on the complexity of the job.
The good news is you can leave the taps, overflow and waste on the bath as the team will cover and protect them. This also applies to your tiles, walls, floor and any other sanitaryware and fixings.
They will begin by repairing the damage, priming the bath and then spraying it with a special hardwearing paint. It looks like enamel and provides a super durable, smooth and even finish, which should be scratch and chemical resistant.
You will be able to use your bath the next day and, with excellent care, the bath should look good as new for up to 20 years.
Method 2: Bath enamel repair off site
If you’re having lots of work done in your house, or have bought a reclaimed bathtub that hasn’t been plumbed in yet, you can opt to have your tub repaired in a workshop.
You will need to factor in the extra cost of having your bath couriered to and from the workshop, so that’s something else to consider.
But having the bath repaired away from your home means you won’t have any unpleasant smells to contend with.
Any repairs will be made to your tub, then a new vitreous enamel coating will be applied over the original worn surface. This new coating will be glossy and will follow the undulations of the bath, so you may suddenly notice little imperfections that have always been there but now show up under bright light.
Don’t be alarmed by this – it’s part of the unique patina of your antique bathtub and should be embraced!
How to care for a cast-iron bath
Once your bath has been resurfaced, it’s really important to take extra care to keep it looking spick and span.
